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	<title>Be the Ink &#187; China</title>
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	<link>http://betheink.com</link>
	<description>Essays and Musings</description>
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		<title>Ai Weiwei: A game of chess and China&#8217;s elemental flaw</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2011/12/ai-weiwei-a-game-of-chess-and-chinas-elemental-flaw/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2011/12/ai-weiwei-a-game-of-chess-and-chinas-elemental-flaw/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Dec 2011 04:56:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Capitalismo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Politics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ai Weiwei]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[democracy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[on being an artist]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[politics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Time magazine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Twitter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[writing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=1659</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Ai Weiwei's self portrait for the Time Person of the Year issue I have been fascinated by Ai Weiwei, the 54-year-old provocative artist and voice of dissidence in China, since May, when I heard an interview with his English translator on one of the my favorite podcasts. He was detained and questioned and kept by the government for 81 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="img alignleft size-full wp-image-1660" style="width:307px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/ai-weiwei.jpg" alt="" width="307" height="409" />
	<div>Ai Weiwei's self portrait for the Time Person of the Year issue</div>
</div>I have been fascinated by Ai Weiwei, the 54-year-old provocative artist and voice of dissidence in China, since May, when I heard an interview with his English translator on one of the my favorite podcasts. He was detained and questioned and kept by the government for 81 days this year, after his blog incited uproar from citizens who agreed and officials who saw him as a dangerous beacon. A tumultuous year has left him listed as one of <em>Time</em> magazine&#8217;s People of the Year, as <a href="http://www.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2101745_2102133_2102331,00.html" target="_blank">&#8220;The Dissident.&#8221;</a></p>
<p>I find him interesting in his amorphous and fluid form and interpretation of art, connecting what we think of as &#8220;Art&#8221; with unconvention and with blogging and microblogging (i.e. Twitter and very brief forms of connecting online), combining his artistic impulses with his gift for words, writing pithy and prophetic bits. That&#8217;s a kind of artistry I greatly admire, especially in the face of the Chinese State And All Its Men. There is quite a difference&#8211;and a kind of bold bravery I cannot imagine&#8211;between being an artist in a free and functioning democracy and being an outspoken artist in a state which does not value or embrace free speech, open access to information, or the fullest extent of self-expression&#8211;even if it means criticizing the men upstairs.</p>
<p>In his <em>Time </em>interview he was asked &#8220;What would you like to see in China?&#8221; This was part of his brilliantly explained answer:</p>
<blockquote><p>We need clear rules to play the game. We need to have respect for the law. If you play a chess game but after two or three moves you change the rules, how can people play with you? Of course you will win, but after 60 years you will still be a bad chess player because you never meet anyone who can challenge you. What kind of game is that? Is it interesting? I&#8217;m sure the people who put me in jail, they&#8217;re so tired. This game is not right, but who is going to say, &#8216;Hey, let&#8217;s play fairly&#8217;?</p></blockquote>
<p>I&#8217;ve been studying China, Chinese politics, language, culture and history, for more than six years now, and my own thoughts on its political system have shifted at times between the two most polar ends of the argument: that either the &#8220;Capitalism with Chinese Characteristics&#8221; official plan has merit, is working, can improve and continue; or that China will inevitably give way democracy because it has already given much up to a free market economic system, and its people still hold memories of the extreme poverty and problems that stemmed from early plans in the early years after the Communist Revolution. People&#8211;around the world&#8211;have spent much time waxing on the future of China&#8217;s political system. No one has explained its crucial fissure in its system so well as Ai Weiwei, himself a son of China, and the actual son of a revolutionary poet.</p>
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		<title>On people, or: &#8220;I didn&#8217;t want to start with an issue&#8221;</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2011/11/i-didnt-want-to-start-with-an-issue-or-writing-about-people/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2011/11/i-didnt-want-to-start-with-an-issue-or-writing-about-people/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2011 17:13:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Public History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[India]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[individual history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[interpretation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Peter Hessler]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[William Dalrymple]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=1540</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Peter Hessler, former English teacher in China and author of several books on Chinese life and people, both historical and modern, is a 2011 MacArthur Fellow and long-form journalist. In his interview in reception of his prize, he spoke on what it is to write about China and Chinese life, to him: “There&#8217;s always been [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Peter Hessler, former English teacher in China and author of several books on Chinese life and people, both historical and modern, is a 2011 MacArthur Fellow and long-form journalist. In his interview in <a href="http://www.macfound.org/site/c.lkLXJ8MQKrH/b.7730985/k.9468/Peter_Hessler.htm" target="_blank">reception of his prize</a>, he spoke on what it is to write about China and Chinese life, to him:</p>
<blockquote><p>“There&#8217;s always been a tendency to see a place like China in very political terms. I think this is partly because it’s a communist country, it’s run by the Communist Party. And from my perspective, living in China, starting especially the way that I started, as a Peace Corps volunteer, in a small community, teaching in a small college, it gave me a very different starting point. And I really wanted to write about ordinary people in China. I didn&#8217;t want to start with an issue, or start with a political idea, I wanted to start with an individual, start with a community.”</p></blockquote>
<div class="img size-full wp-image-1541 alignright" style="width:380px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/peter-hessler-475.jpg" alt="" width="380" height="264" />
	<div>Peter Hessler on the job as a journalist in China</div>
</div>To me this exemplifies the kind of approach that public historians take to topics of history that have traditionally been very idea-based, politically oriented, and top-down in nature. We can look at a country or an issue or a group of people through these high-minded mechanisms, or we can study people themselves, and how they fit into the larger historical fabric. That is a much more important goal, and ultimately more meaningful.</p>
<p>Hessler is a journalist, that is an important distinction; but he writes based in a historical context, referencing the past at each step, and this is also valuable. (I will fight with people who dismiss great books written by journalists.)</p>
<div class="img size-medium wp-image-1542 alignleft" style="width:146px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Bahadur_Shah_Zafar-228x300.jpg" alt="" width="146" height="192" />
	<div>Bahadur Shah Zafar, the titular &quot;last emperor,&quot; in a complicated era in Indian and British history</div>
</div>Looking at one individual person&#8217;s perspective can lead towards a dangerous of generalizing based on not enough larger perspective, yes, but it is in knowing the balance, and in incorporating these <em>people </em>into history that we are best served by learning of the past. Genealogy is not <em>real </em>historical study, but it gets people engaged, and that is important. Someone is interested in feeling a personal connection to the past, and that cannot be ignored in our own, professional approaches to studying history.</p>
<p>I am always reminded of British writer and historian William Dalrymple&#8217;s  fantastic skill for emphasizing the individual&#8217;s experience of history, as he does in <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Last-Mughal-Dynasty-Delhi-Vintage/dp/1400078334/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1322325239&amp;sr=8-2" target="_blank">The Last Mughal: The Fall of a Dynasty: Delhi, 1857</a>,  </em>which keeps the reader vividly engaged by showing us the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_Rebellion_of_1857" target="_blank">Indian Rebellion of 1857</a> through the eyes of several key player on the ground. I have never read a book of history in which I felt so deeply connected to the characters of the era, and when they all begin falling at the hands of their enemies, I had a true emotional reaction to the destruction of this city and these lives. I&#8217;ve heard he does the same thing in one of his other works, <em>White Mughals: Love and Betrayal in Eighteenth Century India.  </em>An inspiring example&#8211;though not without his critiques&#8211;of this kind of engaging historical writing.</p>
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		<title>If the Chinese middle class permits</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2011/11/if-the-chinese-middle-class-permits/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2011/11/if-the-chinese-middle-class-permits/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Nov 2011 03:51:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Asia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Capitalismo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Economics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bill Saporito]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[future]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[global economy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[middle class]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recession]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=1511</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The expanding Chinese middle class has more money to spend on tourism, like this family in Nanjing, June 2007. Bill Saporito&#8217;s October 31 Time article said it best: &#8220;Consider the cosmic irony: wobbly Western economies are depending on the Chinese Communist Party to save their capitalist bacon. Likewise, the Chinese government&#8217;s grand scheme to rebalance its economy [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="img size-medium wp-image-1512 alignleft" style="width:401px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/DSCN1126-401x300.jpg" alt="" width="401" height="300" />
	<div>The expanding Chinese middle class has more money to spend on tourism, like this family in Nanjing, June 2007.</div>
</div>Bill Saporito&#8217;s October 31 <em>Time</em> article said it best: &#8220;Consider the cosmic irony: wobbly Western economies are depending on the Chinese Communist Party to save their capitalist bacon. Likewise, the Chinese government&#8217;s grand scheme to rebalance its economy hinges on Western-style materialism.&#8221;</p>
<p>&#8220;Shop &#8217;til you drop&#8221; probably <em>isn&#8217;t </em>what Mao Zedong had in mind during the years he was in power, as Saporito points out in his piece on the Chinese middle class, a spending class that precariously faces what could wind up saving the global economy&#8211;or busting it even further.</p>
<p>What China is planning is a shift away from export-based industry to a consumer-spending based system, but it will not be easy and there are plenty of potential hiccups involved in fundamentally shifting an economy of 1.7 billion people. But the middle class of that country, which they are projecting to be 70 percent of the population by 2020, could be the saviors of the global economic structure; they have immense capacity for spending, a huge group like that.</p>
<div class="img alignright size-medium wp-image-1513" style="width:401px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/DSCN0505-401x300.jpg" alt="" width="401" height="300" />
	<div>Western- and Chinese-based companies combine to create the giant metropoles that dot China. This is downtown Zhengzhou, whose population was 8 million in 2007.</div>
</div>The American century, the twentieth, is over. It&#8217;s been over for awhile, and there&#8217;s no stopping the growth of India and China now. It will be interesting to see what does happen in the Chinese economy, in the next fifty to one hundred years. Right now, we cannot predict which way it will go, but the result will be felt greatly worldwide, whichever way it swings. Spending too much time focused so exclusively on the United States means Americans, I think, are not thinking quite so realistically about the end of our own era. Not that we&#8217;re going away, it&#8217;s just not going to be our job to be Mister #1 anymore; that&#8217;s not a bad thing. China, if it takes over that spot, certainly has plenty of its own issues&#8211;inherent in its government system&#8211;that its leaders will need to sort out, not least of which includes their rough human rights record.</p>
<p>Companies have known for years that the developing world was an important place for them to seek new markets for their goods. Couple that with a recession across the West and other developed nations, and you see a kind of exodus now, towards those booming, growing, expansive markets&#8211;the new consumers who have their eyes on fancy goods. Gap, the American jeans company, is closing twenty percent of its U.S. stores and tripling the number it has in China.</p>
<p>Saporito&#8217;s most memorable bit:</p>
<blockquote><p>If successful, the shift to consumer spending will take a good chunk of the weight of the global economy off the shoulders of American consumers and make China a gotta-be-there market for everything from video games to surgical tools to potato chips. &#8220;This generation, these strivers, they will be the saviors of the global economy,&#8221; says Tim Minges, chairman of the greater China region for PepsiCo, which is pouring billions into China in anticipation of that growth. &#8220;I really do think the Chinese middle class will be like the U.S. baby boomers.&#8221;</p></blockquote>
<p>I, for one, am putting my faith in this Chinese middle class, as the new version of the U.S.&#8217;s baby boomers, to save us all.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1514" style="width:648px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/DSCN1522-900x673.jpg" alt="" width="648" height="484" />
	<div>Shopping with other study abroad girls at an 8-story mall in Shanghai. (We were excited because they actually took credit/debit cards in Shanghai.)</div>
</div>
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		<title>Oral history in practice: find the people, and a project becomes real</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2011/10/oral-history-in-practice-find-the-people-and-a-project-becomes-real/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2011/10/oral-history-in-practice-find-the-people-and-a-project-becomes-real/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 05 Oct 2011 23:13:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Community]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Public History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[adoption]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Atlanta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chinese-American experience]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[grad school]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[international history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oral history]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=1491</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Lots of kiddos at Best International School in Zhengzhou, China, May 2007 I&#8217;ve started putting into practice the things that up until this point in my oral history class have only been discussed, that existed only in theory, as things we would eventually have to do. I&#8217;ve begun the process of cold-calling a list of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="img alignleft size-medium wp-image-1500" style="width:373px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/DSCN0805-373x300.jpg" alt="" width="373" height="300" />
	<div>Lots of kiddos at Best International School in Zhengzhou, China, May 2007</div>
</div>I&#8217;ve started putting into practice the things that up until this point in my oral history class have only been discussed, that existed only in theory, as things we would <em>eventually </em>have to do.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve begun the process of cold-calling a list of strangers, to me, nothing more than a series of names and phone numbers that I found on a national organization&#8217;s Atlanta chapter site. And to them, I am a stranger asking to be let into <em>their </em>lives, who is asking to hear their stories, often quite personal and emotional. I am asking, after all, about the process of adopting their own children. This is a very strange thing to explain in a message on an answering machine to a person you&#8217;ve never spoken to.</p>
<p>And in several cases, I&#8217;ve had kids answer the phone, and take the message. This is even stranger, having to summarize in a brief sentence or series of key words to a child or teenager why this random graduate student wants to talk to their mother. (Note: It&#8217;s about <em>them. </em>Talk about awkward to explain.) &#8220;My name is Jessie, I&#8217;m a graduated student at Georgia State, and I want to talk to your mom about an oral history project I am starting, on families who&#8217;ve adopted children from China.&#8221; Hmm, random, indeed.</p>
<p>The first time I dialed a number, I was so thankful it was no longer in service, because I slammed the phone down and felt my heart rate come back down from through-the-roof heights. A few deep breaths, and onto name #2 on the list. Many calls later, I am slowly but surely reaching out to some families. All in its own time, I am in no hurry, and want these families to feel they can respond to my request in time. We&#8217;re all busy people.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1497" style="width:648px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/DSCN0712-900x833.jpg" alt="" width="648" height="599" />
	<div>At the risk of seeming creepy, I do take pictures of adorable children when visiting foreign countries. China is no exception. (Luoyuang, China, May 2007)</div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">This is, by the way, preliminary work for what will be my master&#8217;s capstone project: an oral history series and podcast series, compiled and stored on a website that also allows for interaction and visitor submissions, on the stories and histories of Metro Atlanta families who have adopted daughters from China. This enormous diaspora of Chinese girls has spread far across the world, and Atlanta is just one corner of that vast space. This community, the girls and their adoptive (and biological) families, are part of an important historical event, beginning largely in the early 1990s and reaching a peak around 1999 &#8211; 2005, and waning in recent years as the process has become extremely cumbersome and slow for adoptive families. This twenty-odd-year period marks an important occurrence in China-U.S. relations that reaches directly into the homes of American families whose <em>families have changed forever </em>because of it; and I want to study this in that historical context, by compiling the oral histories of those living it.</p>
<p>To do this, I&#8217;ve had to muster up some courage I haven&#8217;t used since my days in student journalism&#8211;when it was nothing to phone a stranger and ask them some questions.</p>
<div class="img alignright size-medium wp-image-1502" style="width:379px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/DSCN0846-379x300.jpg" alt="" width="379" height="300" />
	<div>Hula-hoop skills at Best International, a bilingual elementary school</div>
</div>
<p>But oral histories are by nature very intense, quite distinct from a journalistic effort. And it has been <em>thrilling</em> so far, to find what&#8217;s at the other end of the line, when you call someone out of the blue&#8211;a total stranger&#8211;and ask them about something like the experience of adopting <em>their own child. </em></p>
<p>Exhilaration even more enormous than calling as a journalist. <em>No, I&#8217;m not a reporter, I&#8217;m a historian, and I want to record your oral history. </em>Just as we have talked about in class, people immediately begin to question you (&#8220;How did you get my number?&#8221;), and question themselves, retrospect on their own life&#8211;&#8221;I haven&#8217;t done anything important.&#8221; But they <em>have</em> and that&#8217;s the point of oral histories. They are a part of history.</p>
<p>I am awestruck all over again, every time I think of the phone call I received last night, in return to one of my messages left with a woman&#8217;s daughter. She was rightfully questioning of me, but I clearly passed the test, because she became so open and willing and engaging, by the time I hung up with her my jaw was literally hanging open. I sat in shock in the driver&#8217;s seat of my car.</p>
<p>This family has an extraordinary part in the history of Chinese adoptions, from a very early point in the larger narrative timeline. Each of their <em>three </em>daughters is from China, adopted in the 1990s. I have researched this process and read books and articles, and I have never heard of a family like this, ever. And they are part of the exact Metro Atlanta community that I so want to document. I absolutely cannot wait to speak with her further, and collect her story (<em>stories,</em> for sure).</p>
<p>There is a huge difference between theorizing and structuring and dreaming up a plan, a project, and executing it&#8211;and making the final product effective, interesting, helpful to participants and the larger public. Without knowing who is out there to talk to, I had no idea if this would even work. I now feel that it is not only possible, but it has the potential of being extremely fruitful. The families who have adopted from China are an extraordinarily connected and close-knit community, across the nation. I hope this small project can somehow contribute to those within that cross-national community, and inspire other initiatives. It&#8217;s an important international event that deserves to be contemplated in its proper historical context. I&#8217;m so excited to bring us a step closer to doing this.</p>
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		<title>Tell it right, and a western can make me cry.</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2011/06/tell-it-right-and-a-western-can-make-me-cry/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2011/06/tell-it-right-and-a-western-can-make-me-cry/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Jun 2011 18:05:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Popular Culture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Wide World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[summer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Susan Jane Gilman]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travelogue]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[what do we know in this world?]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=1377</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have always been a sucker for a good story. The simplest tale, told in the right way, brings me to tears. It is almost silly how often I have found myself sitting in the movie theater at the end of a great film, or even a mediocre one, and suddenly, some small trigger in the narrative, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have always been a sucker for a good story. The simplest tale, told in the right way, brings me to tears. It is almost silly how often I have found myself sitting in the movie theater at the end of a great film, or even a mediocre one, and suddenly, some small trigger in the narrative, some small act right at the end, brings a full-on wave of emotion, and I am bawling. Or at least, tears flow freely. The effect is the same with books. Heck, it can happen with a 2-minute YouTube clip, or even a commercial, if it&#8217;s been really well-made.</p>
<p>This happened to me when I read <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Kite-Runner-Khaled-Hosseini/dp/1594480001">The Kite Runner</a>. </em>I would find myself laying on my bed, engrossed in the story of two young boys whose lives were forever impacted by the wars, conflicts, and tragedies that have befallen Afghanistan, and I would suddenly weep thinking of its enormity. I would literally cry for Afghanistan, big and small. It happened as well in the movie <em><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1403865/">True Grit</a>&#8211;</em>which still kind of mystifies even me. I mean in the last sixty seconds, when the little whippersnapper girl, all grown up, visits a ruff and tumble landscape and inquires about her old travel partner, Rooster Cogburn, and it is established that he has since passed away. Their whole story culminated in my mind, and I was overcome, to tears.</p>
<p>I guess this is why, from a young age and with a big imagination, I have always been drawn to good stories, and long wanted to create them myself as well. I adamantly wanted to make movies&#8211;write, direct, etc.&#8211;that was what I told people in high school. I also wanted to be a journalist. I now have a history degree and want to tell stories in museums, and hopefully in books of my own. These are all careers, ways of storytelling, coming from this same spout of emotion that rests inside me, ready to well up anytime some sort of meaningful conclusion, resolution, decision, gesture, or tragedy has been proffered in a story. And in the grand tradition of learning, we discover more of the world that we just can&#8217;t begin to fathom; we know that in fact, the more we learn, the less we can really ever know. I claim to know a little bit about a few things, but man, the world is big.</p>
<p>I just finished reading a<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Undress-Temple-Heaven-Susan-Gilman/dp/0446578924"> <em>perfect </em>summer book</a>. I have referenced it several times lately, because it is about a 22-year-old fresh college graduate who takes off for China in 1986, and discovers a lot of things about herself&#8211;and many of those things mirrored in stark and hilarious ways insights I had about myself when I traveled to China as well (but in 2007, to a vastly different country). Susan Jane Gilman has gone on to do a lot of awesome things since her mid-eighties escapades, working as a journalist and living abroad now.</p>
<p>But her recounting of the life of a Chinese woman that she met on her memorable trek, and reunited with on a visit in 2005, brought the tears. She writes about how even when they bonded in the &#8217;80s, she knew (she assumed) that Lisa, this young woman the same age as her, would have a very linear life, one that had almost none of the potential that her own, Gilman&#8217;s, could have, because of where she lived in the world. As it turns out, Lisa grew her small restaurant into a series of businesses in Yangshuo, China, and is now referred to as &#8220;an institution&#8221; in Lonely Planet guidebooks on China. She had coffee with President Clinton when he visited her restaurant and served on a delegation that welcomed him to China in the late nineties. She has gone farther than Gilman ever expected or could have dreamed. But she has still not the opportunities as this visiting American; as of 2005, she still cannot travel independently abroad, say, perhaps to visit her friend Gilman in Switzerland. Her whole story brings me to tears. And what makes me the most emotional, I think, is our own assumptions, the things an American might think or assume about anyone else. Assuming that a 22-year old Chinese woman would be destined to live out her life in servitude to her husband, with one child, cooking pancakes for foreigners and backpackers in Yangshuo with no foreseeable economic or lifestyle opportunities beyond that.</p>
<p>In the whole book, there is <em>so much </em>drama, so many insane travel antics that occur, yet here I am bawling at the very end over a small reunion of two fleeting friends, and over the complicated and sometimes tragic things we assume, learn, and discover about one another in this wide world. The larger plot line of her time in China, actually, has not ended in resolution, and is rather bittersweet. But in this little subplot, here, we can rejoice in the wonder, in the sadness, in the immense emotion that real, raw, and meaningful stories provide us.</p>
<p>I believe they are the lifeblood of our existence as humans, propelling us forward, reminding us to believe that we can be part of incredible things. Incredible stories.</p>
<p>(Even if, sometimes, they are made up inside out brains. Fiction has such enormous ability to transport us. I am jealous of people who can write it.)</p>
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		<title>Instead of reading for class&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2011/06/instead-of-reading-for-class/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2011/06/instead-of-reading-for-class/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Jun 2011 02:54:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Identity]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Wide World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[being foreign]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cross-cultural]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[irony]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Susan Jane Gilman]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travelogues]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=1368</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&#8230; I&#8217;ve been reading a good old travelogue, like those which sustained my interest for a few years, when I first discovered the Travel Essays section of the bookstore, until I realized that mostly, that shelf does not have new releases very often, and I had read all the best ones already. The rest, I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8230; I&#8217;ve been reading a good old travelogue, like those which sustained my interest for a few years, when I first discovered the Travel Essays section of the bookstore, until I realized that mostly, that shelf does not have new releases very often, and I had read all the best ones already. The rest, I would pick through, but to this day, I have that shelf mostly memorized by its titles and the colors of the spines. (I&#8217;m not kidding.)</p>
<p>But I hadn&#8217;t looked at it in a while, and so recently I checked back on it, and found a new publication. Susan Jane Gilman&#8217;s memoir and travelogue of her travels in China, <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Undress-Temple-Heaven-Susan-Gilman/dp/0446578924">Undress Me in the Temple of Heaven</a></em> was there, in which she divulges the post-college culture and travel shock that she and her college buddy received when they headed off to China in 1986&#8211;then basically still a closed state, for all intents and purposes, and relatively untraveled by the modern American. I immediately loved her candid, honest descriptions of the way travel on your own, for the first time, <em>really</em> feels. (&#8220;Not at all triumphant.&#8221;)</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1369" style="width:648px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/DSCN1130-900x673.jpg" alt="" width="648" height="485" />
	<div>A Nanjing street through my own camera, 2007</div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">I read two chapters while sitting in the bookstore, ignoring the books I should have been using to do research for summer classes. Of course, as soon as I need to read about Cuba, I want to read about China. But Gilman&#8217;s narrative has been absolutely engaging, and very funny.</p>
<p>I wanted to share one bit, that rings so true, on the hubris, the adventure-seeking, and the irony behind The Backpacker. That timeless first-world traveler who seeks the true thrills in life. She muses on this very thought (an irony I think about often) while describing the bar scene she has found in Beijing. After three weeks of travel through southern China, Gilman and her friend arrive in Beijing and head out on their first night to toast the kind strangers who have helped them during the day, when their bicycles broke down a number of times while traversing the city. To celebrate, they wind up at the same bar as many of the other backpackers in the city, all of whom begin a story-telling competition to determine, without actually saying so, who is the most hardcore, who has traveled in the worst conditions, so as to win some sort of invented (but totally real, to them) honor among the crowd.</p>
<blockquote><p>Soon we were all vying to establish our backpacker&#8217; street cred, to prove how intrepidly we&#8217;d been traveling, how much discomfort we&#8217;d incurred at how little expense. The irony of this was wholly lost on us. We were too young and myopic to recognize the perversity of a logic that equates voluntary deprivation with authentic experience. We thought that by wearing burlap pajamas, contracting intestinal parasites, and opting to ride in third class with &#8220;the people,&#8221; we were somehow being less Western and more Asian. It never seemed to occur to us that only privileged Westerners travel to developing countries in the first place, then use them as playgrounds and laboratories for their own enrichment. Only privileged Westerners consider it a badge of honor to forsake modern amenities for a two-dollar-a-night roach-infested guesthouse. Only privileged Westerners sit around drinking beers at prices the natives can&#8217;t afford while sentimentalizing the nation&#8217;s lower standard of living and adopting it as a lifestyle.</p>
<p>The Asians we were seeing, of course, didn&#8217;t live famished agrarian lives due to some sort of Eastern spirituality or enlightenment. Give most of the world&#8217;s population our money and opportunity, and they weren&#8217;t going slumming at all. They were booking a Club Med vacation in Cancun and drinking a mai tai.</p>
<p>Granted, it was good, even admirable, that we young backpackers at least attempted to break through the barriers of culture and class to experience firsthand how people in Southeast Asia really lived. But we were kidding ourselves in thinking that we were somehow transcending our Western privileges by doing this.</p></blockquote>
<p>She gets exactly at some of the complicated feelings I have about being a Westerner traveling in developing countries. All the same, I find them far more interesting than places like France or Greece. (Not dissing those places, by any means.) I just find so much irony in the whole thing, escaping lives we are so lucky to have, to feel something real. But then, I am <em>so </em>fortunate to have been given a life, a nationality, that allows me to explore far beyond my borders. So, I need to use this blessing, right? Being careful not to <a href="http://www.wmich.edu/dialogues/texts/orientalism.htm">Orientalize</a> anyone I encounter, along the way.</p>
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		<title>Life lessons, from Cuba</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2011/05/life-lessons-from-cuba/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2011/05/life-lessons-from-cuba/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 May 2011 01:15:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Happening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Wide World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cuba]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[learning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[self]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[study abroad]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Susan Jane Gilman]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=1349</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Habana vintage For two weeks, I saw not a single advertisement for a corporation, not a company&#8217;s name at all, unless it was under the command of the Cuban government. It is the exact opposite of the shock of those pictures of random Hong Kong or Shanghai alleyways, that flash thousands of signs, brand names, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1352" style="width:630px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_30841-900x675.jpg" alt="" width="630" height="472" />
	<div>Habana vintage</div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">For two weeks, I saw not a single advertisement for a corporation, not a company&#8217;s name at all, unless it was under the command of the Cuban government. It is the exact opposite of the shock of those pictures of random Hong Kong or Shanghai alleyways, that flash thousands of signs, brand names, and neon lighted characters (which have a doubly shocking effect if you cannot read Japanese or Thai or Mandarin); instead of this, it is actually very shock-<em>less</em>, in that I barely noticed that these things were absent at all. Cuba looked just as I expected, and its color motifs fit right in with the rest of the Caribbean (powder pinks, sea foam greens, sun-scorched blues). The cars really are that old. The newer cars are &#8217;90s-era, so really, even if they aren&#8217;t the &#8217;50s classics you&#8217;d watch for, they&#8217;re all getting along in years.</p>
<p>I was Havana-bound without any particular topic for either of the two papers I must produce this summer. I thought of a couple while there, that I figured sounded simple enough. Upon returning, I have even less of a cohesive plan, and instead find myself in a myriad of winding thoughts, each day, picking up old books I&#8217;ve read and pining for some others that I want to read. Almost two weeks after returning, I have a stack of books by my desk, dogged-eared and leading towards no one particular theme, and a head full of complex but ultimately unhelpful reflections on how I feel about Cuba, the Cuban people, the role of foreigners in the Cuban economy, and of my own personal experience with all of those things.</p>
<p>There are plenty of stories, photographs, and points to be made, many of which I could try to make here. I will put some of them on this blog, to share. They will be anecdotal, each one a small and succinct reflection on one topic, or occurrence. But there is no easy way to sum up my trip, no massive revelation to take away regarding history, memory, culture, language, politics&#8211;all the things that make me tick and keep me thirsty to learn, travel, discover.</p>
<p>Except, probably, that last bit.</p>
<p>I went to Cuba to learn about a nation caught in a long battle with its large next-door neighbor, a country that has defied all predictions and stuck one to the closer side of the Iron Curtain, and after 1991, when it lost the support of U.S.S.R. (because of its dissolution), it went through an extreme period of austerity to continue to prove the same point. I went there to see what politics and economics has done to Cuba since 1959, and to see a bit of its history before that. I went to meet some of its regular people, and to be charmed, once again, by laundry lines hanging outside apartments. This is what I wanted to find, to gain from two weeks there.</p>
<div class="img alignleft size-medium wp-image-1353" style="width:400px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_4015-400x300.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" />
	<div>Perk of studying Cuba: Caribbean sunshine</div>
</div>What I found more than anything though, and which I have only begun to understand upon returning home, is that I found my own spirit, again. That sounds utterly cheesy. I&#8217;ve always known who I am, what I want from the world. But there have been moments in my life when I needed other things first, when I was not yet free to imagine <em>actually </em>going abroad and learning, working, living. It is a fantastic idea, a theory that sounds so romantic. Even easy, once you get your funding together.</p>
<p>It isn&#8217;t though, and even while I was boldly ready, honestly excited, to head off to China at nineteen years old, when I got there, for the first time in my life, I felt the weight of 8,000 miles, of being so far away from anyone in the world who even cared I was alive. It was a strange feeling, alienating, even while you may be in the most populous nation in the world. I needed that experience to bring me to where I am today. In Cuba, to a much smaller extent, the same sense of alienation arose, where I found myself talking to new people and without cell phone or internet. This time around, there were spurts of anxiety (mostly caused by some nasty, violent stomach and digestion issues, if I am being brutally honest), but mostly I felt invincible. Four years made a huge difference. (Also, probably being in a Spanish-speaking country was much easier than trying to order in a restaurant with a Mandarin menu.)</p>
<p>From the moment I have been back home, after seeing a few familiar faces to bring back a bit of energy, I have been in a bit of a funk. Back to reality, to debit cards and filling up my little white Scion with $3.85-per-gallon gas. Back to work, where I spend the shifts managing federal documents, allowing me plenty of time with my own thoughts and the music on my iPod. I want more of what I just came from, and I&#8217;m not afraid to admit that to myself or anyone around me. I&#8217;ve lived on my own for five years, and have needed very much a sense of security, a grounding force to help me get through school. But now I am an adult, one year left on my master&#8217;s degree, and traveling abroad  really is where I see myself headed. There is a reason for the tattoo I got when I was eighteen, even though back then I didn&#8217;t know what kind of internal struggle I was getting myself into. One of the things I felt most deeply while in China was a sadness, sometimes, that no one I loved was there to see the same sights I witnessed, the beauty, or the poverty, or the pain, or the empowerment. But I think my sense of community has grown stronger now, and of that community being a much larger one; sharing moments with strangers has become blissful.</p>
<p>More than this, it is always humbling to visit a developing country, any place where people survive with so little. And to return home to my things, they do not mean as much to me. I am reminded of what I truly need and of how a year from now, I could easily leave much of it behind. This is a very long-winded way of saying, rambling, on what has most glaringly become clear to me since coming back home. I need to see more. I need someone to pay me to do this. Next May, I will make a concerted effort to find a job in the United States. But I think I will make a much greater one to find something abroad. If I had my say, it would be somewhere in India or Southeast Asia.</p>
<p>It goes without saying that I never &#8220;lost&#8221; my bug to see the world. I realize that &#8220;finding&#8221; myself in Cuba sounds atrocious. That&#8217;s not what I did. I was gently reminded that it&#8217;s my life, now, to take where I want.</p>
<p>Today I was reading a bit of one of the (seriously) too many books that I want to read this summer, a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Undress-Temple-Heaven-Susan-Gilman/dp/B004Y6MYZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1306803029&amp;sr=8-1">travelogue by Susan Jane Gilman</a>, and she hit the nail on the head, what going abroad does to a person, alone.</p>
<blockquote><p>In the United States, I would never have dreamed of approaching strangers and asking if I could join them for dinner, but here, what did I have to lose? The game had changed entirely. Perhaps, this was what true liberty was: nothing left to tether you, plus an absence of shame.</p></blockquote>
<p>In China, this took me awhile to work out. In Cuba, I was sad to have too little of it. One night in Havana, a few of the girls and I were talking about the last bit, the absence of shame; it is a real thing. No one cared at all if your clothes smelled or your hair was nasty. Obviously Gilman&#8217;s comments are going much deeper than appearance, but it remains a very existent thing: not caring. It&#8217;s one of the best feelings I&#8217;ve taken from my travel abroad.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1354" style="width:576px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_4141-900x675.jpg" alt="" width="576" height="432" />
	<div>A very excited me, holding a quilt I bought from this woman, outside Trinidad.</div>
</div>
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		<title>Shaolin Temple in the spotlight, and its role in one of the best days of my life</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2011/03/shaolin-temple-in-the-spotlight/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2011/03/shaolin-temple-in-the-spotlight/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Mar 2011 21:35:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Asia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Wide World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dengfeng]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kung fu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[my China 2007]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shaolin Temple]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Song Mountains]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=1224</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This morning I was reading my copy of the current National Geographic, and the standout piece was the story and photographs of the Shaolin Temple, which stands in the midst of the Song Mountains in Henan Province, China. The temple is serving as both an important component of a resurgence of popularity of kung fu and martial [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This morning I was reading my copy of the current <em>National Geographic</em>, and <a href="http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/03/shaolin-kung-fu/gwin-text">the standout piece was the story and photographs of the Shaolin Temple</a>, which stands in the midst of the Song Mountains in Henan Province, China. The temple is serving as both an important component of a resurgence of popularity of kung fu and martial arts in the nation, but it is also hell-bent on branding itself and marketing much of the cultural and historic value that it has, becoming just as much of a tourist money-maker as a place to send your young Chinese son if he&#8217;s got an attitude problem.</p>
<div class="img alignleft size-large wp-image-1226" style="width:441px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0534.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0534-766x1024.jpg" alt="" width="441" height="590" /></a>
	<div>One of my favorite snapshots at the Shaolin Temple: monk on a cell phone. Don't know if he was tired or trying to be subtle...</div>
</div>Dengfeng, the city nearby, is the modern-day kung fu capital of China, with more than 50,000 boys enrolled in at least 60 different schools in the area (source: <em>Nat Geo</em> article). I got a hint of this enormous population of young men when I visited the Shaolin Temple in May of 2007: just as we were returning to our bus, an unfathomable line of boys in red track suits began marching down the wide road into the complex, and they just kept coming, and coming, and&#8230; I was so overwhelmed by the sheer number of people (all teenage boys, too), I tried to take a picture. They all turned out horrible, but I was tickled to find those same red track jackets on the boys featured in the article, which has at least one photo that begins to suggest the huge population of boys living in this region and learning the art of kung fu&#8211;which was discouraged during the Mao years, considered an old-fashioned relic of times gone by.</p>
<p>That day was ridiculously hot; in retrospect, looking at my pictures of the Temple and the mountains and scenery, I wistfully forget this detail, preferring to wax nostalgic about the beauty of everything around me. This day traveling among the Song Mountains, between them on winding roads in a gigantic bus, remains one of the best days in my life. That is no overstatement. I was breathless the whole day over the beauty of the mountains, and I could not figure out why. As dusk approached, I realized internally that I had never actually been around mountains of any true enormity. These geographic giants gracing the backdrop of everything we did was an entirely foreign context for me.</p>
<div class="img alignright size-medium wp-image-1227" style="width:400px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0604.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0604-400x300.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>
	<div>A very poor photo of the landscape and scenery of the Zen Music Show. This does not at all do the mood or the evening justice. </div>
</div>As night approached, we attended a show vaguely titled Zen Music Show, which does absolutely no justice for the stunning music and dance that was performed, again in the shadows of the mountains&#8211;in fact, using them as part of the story of man and his long relationship to the land, to music, to sounds of nature as being music, and to his own body as a form of art. Again, <em>none</em> of my photos do this night justice at all. But I was in tears over the blessing of such an amazing experience, which I knew would never be recreated in exactly the same way. I floated through the day, and the night was so amazing as to feel surreal. Not to sound crazy or too-far-on-edge, but natural high&#8221; might be the most accurate description of this day and subsequent evening.</p>
<p>Add to this the dinner we&#8217;d feasted on before the show: a traditional fare of what a monk would eat in a Buddhist monastery, eaten <em>in </em>a monastery that glimmered with fresh flowers, vines, and twinkle lights in its charming courtyard. I honestly do not care if the whole thing was a tourist establishment, because it did not feel this way, and the food was some of the very best I had in China. With meat out of the picture (traditional monks are vegetarian), all the sudden spices and vegetables were the delicious focus, and it was as if the two composed a symphony of flavors together, shining, instead of serving as sideline components to dinner. The vegetables were incredible, cooked perfectly. Nuts, rice, and other key dishes in the monk&#8217;s mix were also extraordinary. I realize this might have been compounded by my already-blissful feelings on the day, but even while eating the meal and when considered against every other night I ordered food in two months in China, it remains on a very short list of stand-out meals.</p>
<div class="img alignright size-medium wp-image-1228" style="width:400px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0563.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0563-400x300.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>
	<div>The traditional monk's dinner that we ate that night. On the quintessential Chinese lazy susan.</div>
</div>The actual Shaolin Temple itself was a bit of a sham: it is proclaimed as ancient and historic. They sort of add on as a parenthetical detail the fact that the actual temple and all extra buildings on the campus were built in the 1980s, as part of the budget for a kung fu movie (kid you not). The one before that had been destroyed during the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cultural_revolution">Cultural Revolution</a> (1966-76), when all things deemed &#8220;traditional&#8221; were slated as insignificant for the new and communist China, and were seen as potential threats that might cause citizens to revert back to old fashioned ways and challenge the larger system. This included arts and religion, and many educators and practitioners of these things were beaten or killed for their interests. (There&#8217;s a book on the memories of many who have been silent, but who lived through much of this, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/China-Witness-Xinran/dp/0307388530/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1299273263&amp;sr=8-11">here</a>.) And the Shaolin Temple that the Red Guard burned then was built in the early twentieth century.</p>
<p>I have lessoned my outrage over time regarding this part of the Temple, as sometimes history happens and we just have to do the best we can with the tumultuous times we witness. Buildings get destroyed, and if they matter enough to the people around it at the time, they are rebuilt. But I had real issues with the way it was portrayed, as the &#8220;real thing.&#8221; The grounds and cemetery <em>are </em>the real thing, where generations of the kung fu masters have their final resting place. That<em> is</em> significant. I remember feeling a bit betrayed when they informed us that this temple was circa 1980s, about as old as me, right at the end of the whole spiel.</p>
<p>One small speck on my day though. All these memories were coming back to me this morning, and I took some time to reflect again on the way I felt that day, and reminded myself again that experiences like that have been vastly influential in my life as a whole. Bites of life like that are what give it so much meaning. And, I was so <em>utterly</em> thankful to be there, drinking in this country, this language, this landscape, so unlike my own.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-medium wp-image-1229" style="width:517px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0547.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0547-517x300.jpg" alt="" width="517" height="300" /></a>
	<div>Men and boys performing some amazing kung fu moves for an audience</div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1230" style="width:576px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0552.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0552-900x673.jpg" alt="" width="576" height="430" /></a>
	<div>And other boys during some downtime in their dorm courtyard</div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1231" style="width:630px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0560.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0560-900x673.jpg" alt="" width="630" height="471" /></a>
	<div>This horrible shot is the best I have conveying the HUGE lines of boys who began to flock the Shaolin Temple as we were leaving. The lines were miles long.</div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1232" style="width:648px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0564.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0564-900x673.jpg" alt="" width="648" height="484" /></a>
	<div>The courtyard of the monastery where we ate dinner that day</div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1233" style="width:656px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0578.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0578-900x673.jpg" alt="" width="656" height="491" /></a>
	<div>Ethereal feeling as dusk approached (helped along in the China way by a bit of cloudy sky)</div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><div class="img aligncenter size-large wp-image-1234" style="width:648px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0579.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSCN0579-900x673.jpg" alt="" width="648" height="484" /></a>
	<div>Someone was nice enough to take this picture with their own camera, I think. As close to a pure bliss feeling as I've had. (And the coldest beer ever. It was a HOT day.)</div>
</div>
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		<title>Modern-day &#8220;Peril&#8221;? Chinese language in American classrooms, and that long-standing friend-or-enemy dilemma</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2010/10/chinese-language-in-american-classrooms/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2010/10/chinese-language-in-american-classrooms/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Oct 2010 21:13:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Asia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Education]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Language]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[economics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[education]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=957</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[China has the second-largest economy in the world, a fact that looms ominously over the shoulder of El Numero Uno: the United States. And when you are as connected economically as China and the U.S., it behooves each side to attempt friendliness; it also means it would be nearly impossible for either side to start [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>China has the second-largest economy in the world, a fact that looms ominously over the shoulder of El Numero Uno: the United States. And when you are as connected economically as China and the U.S., it behooves each side to attempt friendliness; it also means it would be nearly impossible for either side to start a conflict with the other, as the economies are so dependent on one another that any such move could bring collapse to both.</p>
<p>And perhaps the most important lesson for the United States to learn, the one it struggles with most, is coming to honest terms with the fact that China is not a democracy. It functions as a fast-paced consumer economy, and does allow more economic freedoms today (like job choice and <em>sometimes </em>location of residency, for example), without really having changed its governmental system at all; much has been written on this unique breed of national existence, this &#8220;socialism with Chinese characteristics,&#8221; and so the basic system remains today&#8211;with obvious cracks and some severe humanitarian issues on its plate. America has trouble with this sometimes, this issue of engaging as an ally a country with fundamental differences from its own governmental policies.</p>
<p>Neither condoning nor condemning China&#8217;s policies, though, it must at least be admitted that China cannot be ignored. Without condoning their humanitarian infractions, myself and many Americans have been able to learn about the Chinese people&#8217;s language, culture, history, food, and customary idiosyncrasies; each American who speaks Mandarin Chinese is contributing positively to the larger relationship between these two economic powers, to the extent that it is hard for me to understand the neglect this language currently sees in U.S. schools. In urban areas, more is inherently available to students; but in smaller towns, like the one where I went to high school, French and Spanish are the only options, and only through the required level &#8220;two.&#8221; (Let&#8217;s not get into that larger discussion on our monolinguist nation.) Meanwhile there are <a href="https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ch.html">264 <em>million </em>children</a> in China under the age of fourteen, going through school right now, and I&#8217;ll give you one guess what language they&#8217;re also learning. It just seems so very clear that we&#8217;re putting our own children at a disadvantage for their lifetime and their job choices, if they are unable to compete with the bilingual Chinese children who can communicate in both directions in the business and politics of the twenty-first century.</p>
<div class="img alignleft size-full wp-image-960" style="width:420px;">
	<a href="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/6chinese_6001.jpg"><img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/6chinese_6001.jpg" alt="Photo by Mustafah Abdulaziz for Education Week; link to story: http://bit.ly/dz96t1" width="420" height="280" /></a>
	<div>Photo by Mustafah Abdulaziz for Education Week; link to story: http://bit.ly/dz96t1</div>
</div>So the Chinese government has &#8220;stretched its linguistics muscles&#8221; this year by committing millions of dollars to U.S. schools to build Mandarin language programs in more K-12 schools. In a time of near economic crisis, and definite panic at least, in many schools across the country, this should be a welcome supply of funding, to get kids involved in their global world, and to infuse their studies with a new diversion&#8211;beyond their math, science, and social studies regulars. A connection with an Asian culture gives kids a much wider perspective on lifestyles around the world, connects them to a new level with Chinese-Americans in their communities, and, quite simply, gives them a &#8220;cool&#8221; language to study. Decoding Chinese characters is a thrilling revelation, for anyone who&#8217;s studied the language.</p>
<p>But naturally, given the menacing vision of China as an economic bully (granted, the fixed Chinese currency is a festering thorn in the side of economic negotiations and discussion), and given its less than stellar past of censorship, political freedom, and dissemination of information, there are bound to be cries of cultural infiltration: these Chinese will infect the minds of our kids! It&#8217;s <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_Peril">Yellow Peril</a> for a new age.</p>
<p>In a <a href="http://www.edweek.org/ew/articles/2010/10/06/06chinese_ep.h30.html?tkn=YNWFxfLU6TKhCIuvMa4%252FysZEhLKD3zxVv9Vb&amp;cmp=clp-edweek">recent article from <em>Education Week</em>, </a>this issue was explored. Some see it as accepting resources from a country who will provide language, with a heavy dose of propaganda on the side.</p>
<blockquote><p>That dust-up caught the notice of Chester E. Finn Jr., a former  education official in the Reagan administration and the president of the  Thomas B. Fordham Institute, a Washington think tank. He argues that  public schools should not accept aid from the Chinese government.</p>
<p>“This is not an ally. This is the country on the planet from which  the United States faces the largest and most worrisome long-term  threats,” he said. “And for its government to be funding our schools to  teach its language, I think, is an alarming and menacing development.  And that our schools are welcoming this development strikes me as  outrageous.”</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Countering this, some educators see its value for the future or global relations, as well as for the schoolkids.</p>
<blockquote><p>“It’s a great opportunity,” William C. Harrison, who chairs the North  Carolina state board of education, said of his state’s program, to  which China is expected to supply more than $5 million in direct aid and  “in kind” services. “The best way to become globally competitive is to  develop an understanding of those with whom you compete, being able to  communicate with them, and being able to collaborate with them.”</p>
<p>He added: “We’re looking at the number-two economy in the world  with prospects to be number one. &#8230; I think it’s in our best interest  to develop positive relationships.”</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The key lies somewhere in the balance of being economic allies while respecting differences; we don&#8217;t have the best reputation with that. Shortsightedness now will have a crippling effect on our country&#8217;s standing in the future, and the people leading it then will be the ones in school now, learning minimal Spanish and French. Our world will look mighty different then; can we find those areas of change now, and adapt?</p>
<p><br class="spacer_" /></p>
<p><strong>UPDATE 12/9/2010:</strong> Here is another article on America&#8217;s trials and tribulations in building a Chinese language program in K-12 schools. From <em>Newsweek</em>: <a href="http://www.newsweek.com/2010/12/06/not-much-progress-in-america-s-chinese-problem.html#">&#8220;America&#8217;s Chinese Problem&#8221;</a></p>
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		<title>Adventures in an undergrad history thesis, or, four months with Young John Allen</title>
		<link>http://betheink.com/2009/12/senior-thesis-adventures/</link>
		<comments>http://betheink.com/2009/12/senior-thesis-adventures/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Dec 2009 05:34:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jcedens</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Emory University]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kennesaw state university]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Methodist Church]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Young J. Allen]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://betheink.com/?p=339</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The fall semester has ended, and with it, the largest writing project of my life (so far). The function of a senior seminar in history is to prove that you&#8217;ve acquired the skills to read and analyze scholarly work, do research in primary and secondary sources, and develop your own historical argument&#8211; one that contributes [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The fall semester has ended, and with it, the largest writing project of my life (so far). The function of a <a href="http://www.kennesaw.edu/history/" target="_self">senior seminar in history</a> is to prove that you&#8217;ve acquired the skills to read and analyze scholarly work, do research in primary and secondary sources, and develop your own historical argument&#8211; one that contributes to a larger body of work. The final written product needed to be around the 6000-word ballpark; we had four months to become semi-experts on the subjects we were researching, enough time to hopefully learn enough that our own thesis could grow out of the discoveries we made while reading.</p>
<p>We read.</p>
<p>For two months we read an array of articles from the <a href="http://www.georgiahistory.com/containers/14" target="_self"><em>Georgia Historical Quarterly</em></a>, on various topics in Georgia history from the Civil War to the early 1970s. During this time, we were each seeking to become well-read in our respective areas of interest, often guided through the sources by our professor, Dr. David Parker. Then around the end of September, we stopped meeting to discuss articles and hypothetical topics and started using that class time to scour the archives, the library, and the research databases we&#8217;d used to much less extent in previous classes: we had to come up with a thesis and flesh it out into a contextual and well-argued history thesis by Dec. 7.</p>
<p>No pressure.</p>
<div class="img size-full wp-image-343 alignright" style="width:216px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/early-YJA.jpg" alt="Young J. Allen in his early twenties; he mentions in a letter to his aunt and uncle (who raised him) that he stopped shaving his beard at the outset of the American Civil War. It is apparent that he never picked up the habit again." width="216" height="280" />
	<div>Young J. Allen in his early twenties; he mentions in a letter to his aunt and uncle (who raised him) that he stopped shaving his beard at the outset of the American Civil War. It is apparent that he never picked up the habit again. (Photos courtesy MARBL, Emory.)</div>
</div>
<p>I had arrived in this class at the eleventh hour, signing up about two weeks before the start of fall semester&#8211; and without one last prerequisite class I needed. And in fact it was quite surprising to some of my history major friends that I would end up in a Georgia History senior seminar after spending college studying Asia. But several weeks earlier, in mid-July, Dr. Parker and I had found a way to combine these two seemingly unrelated regions: <a href="http://marbl.library.emory.edu/DigitalExhibits/YJ_Allen/index.html">Young John Allen.</a></p>
<p>Young J. Allen (yes, Young <em>is </em>his first name, not a kindly prefix) graduated from Emory College when it was just a newly-founded school in Oxford, Georgia, and spent his life as a Methodist missionary in Shanghai, China. He left the United States in Dec. 1859 and remained in the Far East until his death there in 1907. His manuscript collection as well as a large library of his own books reside at Emory University in Atlanta, deeming Allen the subject of a day&#8217;s trek over to the archives at their <a href="http://marbl.library.emory.edu/" target="_self">Manuscript, Archives, and Rare Book Library (MARBL)</a>. What started as a fun mini-project for my summer class (which I also took with Dr. Parker) would have to become my senior thesis topic; when else was I going to find a subject that would so perfectly blend documents in Georgia and three years&#8217; worth of my knowledge about Chinese culture, language, politics, and religion? Plus, I was raised Methodist, so I would get to know a little more about that history to boot.</p>
<p>What I would discover was much more than the life, failures, and triumphs of Young J. Allen and the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methodist_Episcopal_Church,_South" target="_self">Methodist Episcopal Church, South</a> in China, but simply how enthralling it is to pour over documents that he poured over more than a century earlier. Call me a dork, or a call me a historian, but it felt utterly like touching history. Thankfully, he had somewhat legible handwriting, so I read what I could of his hand-written letters, journals, sermons, and notes for the books he wrote. It felt romantic in the way it seems when you read <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Historian-Elizabeth-Kostova/dp/0316070637/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1260499177&amp;sr=8-1"><em>The Historian</em></a> and follow a generation of historians across Cold War Europe in search of Vlad Tepes (the prince who inspired tales of Dracula) but also monotonous in the way that you feel work must inevitably be. The result is a happy medium, a wholly rewarding experience and with any luck, worthwhile when you sit down to write.</p>
<p>What did I find?</p>
<div class="img alignleft size-full wp-image-350" style="width:225px;">
	<img src="http://betheink.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/later-YJA.jpg" alt="Allen would spend his life devoted to not only evangelism but the added social goals of education, journalism, writing, and translating." width="225" height="280" />
	<div>Allen would spend his life devoted to not only evangelism but the added social goals of education, journalism, writing, and translating.</div>
</div>
<p>I found a man inspired by God, baffled by Confucius, and bound to pragmatism. The state of the young Methodist mission was sad when he arrived, and much as he tried to expand it, the American Civil War stole any hope of support or funding from abroad. Allen and his fellow missionary J. W. Lambuth spent nearly a decade working odd jobs to keep themselves afloat. Their families were present in Shanghai too; in fact, Allen had six children with his wife Mary Houston Allen, but only three survived past toddlerhood. By the time funding returned in any sense, Allen had made his own revelation about Chinese society. The non-receptive citizens he&#8217;d been preaching to had been anything but successful; but the young men he taught while working at a government school seemed just the type, the upper class families, who may have more influence in a hierarchical Confucian society. Maybe, he decided, reaching these people first and educating them in western subjects (including but not exclusively Christianity) could later influence more people through the top-down formation of their citizenship. These people would not only receive the accompanying western education that Allen considered paramount, but might have more success at reaching the laypeople with whom he&#8217;d become so disenchanted.</p>
<p>Allen spent the rest of his life working to varying degrees in education in Shanghai. The Anglo-Chinese College, Shanghai would eventually merge with two others to become Suzhou University in 1901, which had been one of his life&#8217;s goals. He would also play his hand in journalism and publishing, using his <em>Wan-kuo kung-pao</em> magazine to propel a combination of world and national news, essays on religion, and attacks on Confucian lifestyle. He contributed many translations of tomes on politics and religion, including <em>The Relations Between East and West</em> that was popular among his colleagues and governmental gentry. He wrote several books of his own as well, including <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=hLcpAAAAYAAJ&amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;dq=%E6%9D%8E%E5%82%85%E7%9B%B8%E6%AD%B7%E8%81%98%E6%AD%90%E7%BE%8E%E8%A8%98&amp;ei=OAfnSq-8KqiOyATwpanyCw#v=onepage&amp;q=&amp;f=false">one that you can find on Google Books</a> today (by the way, it&#8217;s in Chinese!). While he did not abandon his evangelistic goals, he expanded those initial plans by adding his social missions to his ambitious strategy to win converts. He wound up somewhere in between fully accepting Confucian society and fully condemning it, and allowed students to learn about Christianity in a non-pressured way. At the end of the day, he saw both mental and spiritual parts of man to be significant.</p>
<p>My thesis touches on this and other aspects of what made Allen a combination of the two worlds of missionary work that grew out of that late nineteenth and early twentieth century, as Americans and other missionaries encountered reluctant natives in the field; a strong camp of traditional strictly evangelical missionaries would go forth alongside the newer social progress proponents. It wound up being around 8000 words (thirty pages double-spaced). I had an embarrassing number of library books checked out from mine and other university libraries across Georgia.</p>
<p>It was an incredible exercise in being a historian. Almost every person in my ten-student class ended up spending at least a few days in an archive somewhere in Georgia, from Emory to <a href="http://www.koinoniapartners.org/">Koinonia Farm</a> and in between. What any of these theses will become in the future remains to be seen, but I think we all felt like historians during those months. I am one of the only living experts on Young J. Allen, and I think that&#8217;s pretty darn cool.</p>
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